…almost gone!

“History will have to record that the greatest tragedy of this period of transition was not the strident clamour of the bad people, but the appalling silence of the good people.” – Martin Luther King Jr.

The beady-eyed clerk/flunky/official of the Archives Department looked at me with great suspicion. His mouth with protruding paan-stained teeth was more offensive than the open grave I had seen in Pratapgunj.

My first thought, then, was – would we ignore such despoliation around any crematorium/burning ghat or garbage disposal close to a mere stone painted orange and kept under a tree?

Second thought was, as to why nobody around (mostly well-off and erudite), appeared concerned and was this neglect and vandalism really a well-thought out plan to eventually grab the land?

Third thought…what about all the Muslim families and individuals living in this residential area?

But who dares raise a voice in Gujarat now?

 *

During my university days, the burial ground used to be a massive mound and surely it was conveniently haunted! There were stories of a ‘Begum Sahiba’ and her qabar …so, most of my friends at some point of time, took their choice of begums – current or otherwise – for a late evening stroll past the mound. Invariably, quite a few returned with ‘spirited and angelic’ faces!

 *

Anyway, I finally decided to document the knoll before it was razed to the ground. Armed with a camera and laden with memories, I clambered through thick bristly bushes and under the wary eyes of its sole guardian – the Indian Garden Lizard – scrambled over the inner wall.

At least ten graves, if not more, lay under piles of leaves and undergrowth. This was an old graveyard.

Then I saw this tree trunk that had over the years wrapped itself around a tombstone.

The epitaph was in Persian and had “survived the vicissitudes of time and politics.” But what did it say? Still under the impression that this had to be Begum Sahiba’s grave, I hunted around for scholars who could help in translating.

Vadodara the ‘Sanskar Nagari’ was reticent.

 *

Eventually, I was directed to Professor S. Hasan Mahmud, Director, UGC Academic Staff College, Jamia Millia Islamia, New Delhi – whose help has been invaluable. It goes without saying that over the years he is the only person who has been most patient and supportive. I am really grateful to him for translating the inscriptions.

Went in search of a Begum and found a Nawab! My curiosity was stirred further.

During this period I also realised that a solitary grave (South-East of the main burial ground), formed a corner of the Pratapgunj club/ground. Littered with tons of garbage and subject to neglect, I recently managed to get the area cleaned.

The epitaph was in Urdu and the translation, a revelation! This is the grave of Nawab Saiyyid Sadr-ud-Din Husain Khan, a descendant of Nawab Saiyyid Nur-ud-Din Husain Khan Saheb Bahadur, who rests within the mound.

I was like a hound with the scent of the fox enticing the senses. Who were these Nawabs? What was their Vadodara/Pratapgunj connection? What happened to the family? What all has been razed to flatten Pratapgunj?

 *

Not too difficult to trace Baroda’s history. It was interesting to learn that before the Gaekwads captured Baroda, it was ruled by Babi Nawabs, who were the officers of the Delhi ruler. Mughal rule came to an end in 1732, when Pilaji Rao Gaekwad brought the Maratha activities in Southern Gujarat to a head and captured it.

So far so good….and then the aide memoire, as it were, that corruption is not only ‘ghotalas’ but of the mind and attitude too. I mean, how difficult can it be? Well, as difficult as in procuring a Ration Card; filing a Right to Information application or hoping that someone will respond if you dialled any of the various Helpline numbers provided by the authorities!

Pratapgunj as it is known now was once Nawab property and their private qabristan.

Contacted the City Library, City Survey Office, local Archaeological Survey of India Office, Vadodara Urban Development Authority, Pratapgunj Society Office, the Gaekwads, Baroda State Archives…. where the beady-eyed clerk/flunky/official had looked at me with great suspicion and asked, “Nawab ki jankari kis liye? Gandhinagar se permission hai?”

I should have known better. Years ago, I had approached the same office for some information on the English explorer Captain Sir Richard F. Burton of the 18th Bombay Native Infantry based in Gujarat. I had had to sign various forms and get them validated by a ‘reliable’ government person (!) or someone from the History Department who would vouch for the authenticity of my research (does it always have to be research? What has happened to a citizen’s interest in the history of his town?). Anyway, after getting all the silly signatures and stamps, the forms had been submitted and when the permission did come from Gandhinagar (after 4 months) – I was no longer in Vadodara; nor interested in finding out about the said Englishman – and, the authorization to access the archives was only for 7 days, holidays included!

 *

So, even though I have tracked down the present day, largely divided ‘Nawab’ family, I don’t really have anything to write about the Nawabs because I have not been able to secure satisfactory data. No one wanted to help and mostly they were curious to know why a ‘Hindu’ was interested in ‘Muslims’. Even put-in an appeal on Baroda-online (who did not find my request worth their time). Between Mahmud Begada and the Gaekwads, Vadodara’s history finds no mention of the Babi Nawabs. At least, that’s the way they want it to be.

To quote a friend, “I experienced the difficulties that you are facing for 25 years of my stay in Baroda.  I could not lay my hands on the documents of pre-Gaekwad and early Gaekwad periods in Persian that I know are in the Baroda State Archives.

There was no help from anywhere within the city either – not even from the Muslim community. Disturbing state of affairs, more so, because many of those approached are known to me, well-placed and influential within the community.

At the end of it all I felt such a fool being passionate about our history, heritage and trying to record what is left and fast disappearing. Very true, those who asked me the question – maqsad kya hai? The Hindus questioned my interest and the Muslims questioned my interest. In the eyes of both – I was not to be trusted.

Where do I go in this country of mine? Where is home – the oft asked question?

 *

However, some interesting links did materialize through various search engines:

A small rundown portion of the  ‘Nawab Manzil’ still exists.

The other sections have over the years been converted into ugly concrete apartments. How magnificent they must have been!

Another piece of  historical evidence was located at the Library of Congress, Washington. Really impressed with their Asian Division, who responded within a day of my query and have been kind enough to mail me a copy of the said item. I am thrilled!

 *

Coming back to what really is my ‘maqsad’?

Would it be sufficient to say that apart from my passion for history, I am trying to develop rida, tawakkul, sabr and mohabba.  Haven’t reached there as yet.

Nearly two years and nobody seems interested. No time for the living – why the dead!

They are…gone!

*

And, a year later……